The "Big Island" of Hawaii is home to Hawaii Volcanoes National Park and the world's most active volcano,
Kilauea. Its name translates to "much spewing," and is certainly appropriate, as the current eruption began over 23 years ago in January of 1983 and hasn't stopped since. Kilauea is a "shield volcano" which oozes lava, instead of hurling rocks and ash into the sky or simply blowing up. This behavior makes it fairly approachable, as volcanoes go, and thus Hawaii is one of the few places ordinary people - over two million a year, according to the park - approach an erupting volcano, instead of fleeing.
I've been hiking and taking pictures on lava flows from Kilauea for the last few years, and after a particularly long hike this morning, have assembled a few pointers for those who'd like to try it. Here are a dozen points of advice on how to successfully go lava hiking at Kilauea and have a good time while keeping bloodshed to a minimum.
1. Don't Panic. Yes, it's a volcano. Yes, there are hazards involved. But extremely few people have died, and most have no problems whatsoever. There's very little to panic about.
2. Be (Over-)Prepared. The National Park Service strongly recommends wearing sturdy closed-toe boots or shoes, long pants, gloves, a sun hat and sunscreen, and taking a few quarts of water, a flashlight with spare batteries, and a first aid kit. I'll improve a little bit on this: take a minimum of a half-liter of water for each hour you might be out there, per person, plus another bottle to leave in the vehicle for when you return. Wear a t-shirt or other short-sleeved shirt, with a long-sleeved shirt or light jacket over it - the days are hot, the nights are cold, and there's usually a stiff breeze. And if there's any chance you'll wind up hiking at night, take
two flashlights, so you won't be stuck in the dark when one falls and stops working. I personally take a minimum of three flashlights.
3. Consult the Rangers and the Eruption Update. Rangers near the lava flow can - and will - provide information on the best places to see red hot lava. The park's web site also offers regular updates on what's going on with the eruption, along with photos and maps.
4. Go slow. You really have no choice in this matter. You
will go slow, either because you're smart, or because you'll try to go fast and wind up hurting yourself. I've had to pick 50 shards of lava out of one of my hands after slipping while moving too quickly, and I suggest you learn from my mistake. Give yourself an hour for each mile you have to cover. This may seem very slow, but even with all my experience, I can't even maintain 2 miles per hour on a long hike across lava - and I ordinarily walk at more than 4 miles per hour. It's
especially important to take it slow when going downhill, to avoid falls.
5. Watch where you step. The predominant smooth "pahoehoe" lava is generally good for walking on, unlike the rough, jagged "a'a" lava. However, if you find yourself standing on rock that feels unstable, is warm to the touch, or sounds hollow... stand somewhere else. The terrain of the lava flow is very uneven, with mounds and broken pieces of rock. Try to find a path that's fairly flat, or steadily rises or falls, instead of going up and down repeatedly - your legs and feet will thank you.
6. Give hot lava space. You're not in a Will Smith movie. "Old and busted" lava is a lot safer than the "new hotness." In surface breakouts, Kilauea's lava moves slowly, and can easily be approached, but standing within a few feet of it will be uncomfortably hot. Try to avoid standing anywhere with hot lava on more than one side. You can probably get away with two sides, and three if you're particularly good, but having hot lava on all sides might be cause for ignoring rule number 1. Be especially careful if you hear popping sounds, as these indicate the hazard of gas explosions.
Read the rest of the tips...
The photos accompanying this list are from a hike I did between 4:30 AM and 10:00 AM on Friday, 3 February 2006, covering 7-8 miles of extremely rough terrain.